A modern-day caballero, Jan’s husband and fellow artist Manuco Gandia, was also a famous horseman. Here a doorway off the main courtyard pays homage the to family’s close equestrian ties.

“It’s Hogwarts!” Oliver exclaimed as we entered the arched vestibule of The Gallery Inn in Old San Juan. Indeed the sculptural stone interior, chock-a-block full of eclectic art and ephemera, did resemble the wizarding world’s most famous castle. The only thing missing were the owls. Instead there were parrots.

The singular atmosphere of The Gallery Inn is the vision of one woman, Jan D’Esopo, a native of Connecticut and New York who came to Puerto Rico after completing her degree in painting and sculpture. In 1961, the young artist crawled through a crack in the wall of abandoned structure into what she describes as an “ancient secret garden.” Where others saw a hopeless case, Jan recognized in the sculptural remains a kindred spirit. Amongst the whispering stones she heard not only the echoes of the past, but also the call of the future.

In his book, The Big House – an homage to the family home, which fittingly I began to read while a guest at The Gallery Inn – author George Howe Colt describes a home as “the one place that will be in your bones forever.” That is what The Gallery Inn is to Jan. And yet she is the one who added flesh to those bones. By living her life here, raising a family, creating her art, and then finally sharing her space with the world, Jan, together her husband Manuco, nurtured the Inn’s character, gave it life.

Today Jan’s home and hostelry encompasses 6 historic town houses dating from the Spanish Colonial era. Like some hybrid of Pan’s Labrinth and Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardiner Museum, the grand interior moves in a warren-like fashion from grottoed recesses to sunlit courtyards and gardens. Right at the blue macaw, under the ancient arch, left at the Spanish steps, along the palmed atrium, through the grand salon, into the rooftop garden, down the orchid-lined stair, along Roman bath, past the formal dining room, into the artist studio, and so on. There are even some stairs that seem to lead to nowhere. And everywhere momentos of Jan’s rich life follow your progress. Gilded portraits, many by her sister, Teresa D’Esopo Spinner, and family photos gaze down in curious fashion. Bronze and clay statuary by Manuco and Jan – the visages of former guests and local dignitaries (there’s even the Obamas) – peak shying out of nooks and cranies. Even the vines hanging from the balconies seem to reach out in welcome embrace. And don’t be startled if you enter an empty room and are greeted by a spectral “hello!” It’s most likely Campeche, the cockatoo, or one of his parrot friends.

The result off all this romantic eclecticism is a building of such story and character that it seems alive. Indeed it feels not like a hotel at all, but an experience. For some, who may not appreciate the rustic nature of this 300-year-old structure, it may not be the right experience. But for those who are respective to its tale, being a guest at The Gallery Inn is to become part of its story. The effect is nothing short of enchanting.

Rather than modernizing the space, Jan elected to pay homage to the 300-year-old interior’s historic past by maintaining much of the original detail. Here, like starlight, elegant chandeliers pierce the dark of the Spanish colonial dining room.

Reminiscent of a ruined Roman bath, the pool is literally a work of art. It is also the best place for water tag. I admit, at first, I was worried that I would not be able to curb my children from this raucous activity. Until I spied two huge plastic water guns furnished by Jan for just this purpose. Guests of all ages are not only welcomed, but celebrated, at The Gallery Inn.

While the children played water sports with Dad, I relaxed with a glass of wine under the equally Romanesque canopy adjacent to the pool.

The chiaroscuro effect of the Gallery’s interiors was a photographer’s dream. Here Oliver winds up a day of traipsing around San Juan’s impressive and massive fortifications by relaxing with a good book.

Despite the elegant nature of the furnishings, all the spaces in The Gallery Inn possess an intimate quality, that is more welcoming than intimidating. Here a more informal lounge space under the main stairs takes in a view of the palm and orchid studded atrium. 

More reading with Oliver, while Solvi takes in the Atlantic view.

Inspired by the gallery around her, Solvi begins a portrait of her own.

Orchids climb the entire wall of the outdoor garden deck, where guests enjoy breakfast and cocktails.

Jan herself, is an active feature of The Gallery Inn. Here she is with the hotel’s director of hospitality, Campeche, perched on her shoulder. 

Vines cascade from the balcony above this open air atrium, which is still moist from the previous evening’s rain. 

Most evenings at cocktail hour Jan and Campeche emerge to socialize and inquire after the comfort of their guests. In addition, Campeche often performs some of his many tricks, including playing the piano. Here he takes a bow.

Tile enthusiasts will find no shortage at The Gallery Inn.

After a long New England winter, my Pepe sandals were glad to get out and about in the sun.

Off a tiny Colonial kitchen, which now serves as a library, the Venetian style music room plays host to many a concert musician. Here a lucky guest gets a rare chance to play Jan’s Steinway Grand.

Campeche shares his home with several other talented parrots, who welcome visitors with a “hello” or “hola.”

Solvi’s rendering of the Inn’s blue macaw.

Set right over the walls of Old San Juan, The Gallery Inn enjoys a breathtaking view of the ocean (or, from the rooftop wine deck, the whole city). Our room, the Balcon, sported twin balconies that took in not only the “secret garden” courtyard, but also the Atlantic.

Continually inspired by her home, Jan created many portraits of The Gallery Inn. Here, my husband, Chad, sits surrounded by these works.

One of the many sitting areas available for guests to enjoy, this one opens onto the pastel streets of Old San Juan.

When Ben and Sarah Lambert first set eyes on Upcott Farm in Devon, it was love at first sight. Right then and there, they decided to relocate from their urban environs and lay down roots in the country.

I can completely relate. When I first saw the photos of this 200-year-old farm (lovingly restored by these friends-of-friend-of-a-relative of mine), it was all I could do not to jump on a plane and immediately head for an idyllic get-away.

Over the past six years, Ben, a CFO, and Sarah, a professional gardener (and amazing photographer), have worked to bring this once-working farm back to – and perhaps beyond – its former glory. First they renovated the main house, then the kitchen garden, and ancient apple press, and also turned the Piggery into an office/rec room. Most recently, they completed renovations on the lamb and calf sheds, turning them into serene guest cottages.

Judging by the excerpts from their website and blog, the Lambert family has carved out a full life at Upcott – one filled with natural beauty and historic charm – all updated in contemporary style. It’s enough to make anyone long for life on the farm.

The lane leading to Upcott

One of the couple’s daughters feeds hens by the old walkway, made from local beach stones.

artichokes in the kitchen garden, brought to life by Sarah

chives in the kitchen garden

the newly renovated kitchen in the Calfshed

making fresh lemonade

dining area in the Lambshed

upstairs hall with a mix of modern and antique elements

mood board for the recent renovations

In an effort to maintain the feel of the original barns, Ben and Sarah kept the open plan (seen here in the Calfshed). In addition, the newly poured, polished concrete flooring (now updated for comfort with radiant heating) harkens back to the original cement floor.

the exterior of the former piggery

Upstairs, specially cut beams and lofted ceilings maintain a barn-like feel, while white walls brighten the space.

Simple furniture and a limited palette make for a restful retreat in the bedrooms.

spring lamb

the old apple press

an invite to the annual apple pressing event

Upcott Farm Valley – notice the nearby coast in the distance.

When traveling abroad, it is fun to make a fantasy of it by staying in some grand hotel. But I find that the experience is always more authentic when I stay in someone’s home. Especially if it’s the residence of a local artist whose original work becomes your souvenir.

More than just a rental, Souvenirs from Madrid is a “travel experience” by local graphic designer/photographer Iaia Cocoi and her partner, musician Miguel Angel Bestard. In their apartment located in LAVAPIÉS, “the most bohemien area of Madrid,” travelers get a rare chance to “live like a local.”

Much like modern Madrid itself, Iaia and Miguel’s apartment is an eclectic mix of old world charm – the romantic windows with vibrant, flaking paint – and contemporary pop – the blue ladder and Eames-like coat rack. Whimsical accents and witty details give the place a playful, relaxed atmosphere. In this cozy, yet crisp, clean space, you might just be tempted to put off El Prado for a day and spend a rainy afternoon sipping coffee and reading Spanish rags on the couch.

As part of this total experience of genuine Madrid, the couple also leaves custom guides outlining all their off-the-beaten-path favorites. You can even take a Spanish cooking course from this foodie pair or have them prepare a romantic picnic in the park for you. Finally, when it’s time to leave, you can take one of Iaia’s photographs that adorn the apartment with you, to remind you that you didn’t just visit Madrid. You lived there.

the cosy dining area with some of Iaia’s photos

“tea for two” and “the souvenirs” –  Iaia’s photography, which hangs on the wall

All photography by Iaia Cocoi. Used with her permission.

More than once my family has been described as “the most Italian group of Scandinavians you’ll ever meet.” I think this is because of our love of slow food and loud dinner parties. My Aunt Sheila is however the only one of us actually putting this idea into practice. Every year, twice a year she and her husband, Mon, go to Italy to help Mon’s expat cousins harvest and press their olives and generally care for the grove. When they go, they always stay at Il Tufo.

Il Tufo is an ancient farmhouse owned by Fumo, a former Italian rapper and Eva, his Swiss wife. They purchased the farm as part of Italy’s Argiturismo movement, a program to save the region’s local farming tradition by allowing small farmers to supplement their incomes with guest accommodations. Il Tufo is located in the small town of Allerona, Umbria, where the local inhabitants produce 70% of what they consume.

When the couple acquired the farm, it was pretty dilapidated. With the help of Eva’s father, a retired architect, the couple set out to restore the historic house and grounds. Doing most of the work themselves, they fixed structural damage, restored the stucco walls, and laid down new tiles, to create an interior that was in keeping with the history and locale, but was also fresh and contemporary. Everywhere they took advantage of the dramatic light and scale of the house, opening up the space wherever possible. In addition the couple minimized distracting details and decor, so that the structural elements of the house itself – the honey colored beams and terra cotta floors – stand out as much as possible.

Likewise, the furniture is a casual mix of modern minimalism and period antiques, achieved with inexpensive Ikea pieces, such as the beds and living room chairs, as well as lovely historic objects, like the guilt frame at the entrance and the long Italian dining table. The overall effect is warm and welcoming, clean and comfortable, but also quite “hip” in a relaxed way. It’s the kind of design that just seems to roll out of some people, unforced and unpretentious, simply a natural extension of who they are.

Outside Fumo and Eva replanted the 5000 square foot organic garden, and repopulated the grounds with sheep, pigs and chickens. In their cantina (basement storage) they store sausage made from indigenous wild boar, cheese made by a local Sardinia guy, as well as olive oil and wine, that they make themselves.

If you’ve ever wondered why I sometimes have a cocktail recipe or wax on about laundry on what is supposed to be an interior design blog, you need look no further than Fumo and Eva’s Il Tufo. In a lifestyle like their’s where you “inhabit” everything you do, design, food, gardening, etc. are not unrelated. Indeed they are part of one big thing, an authentic, intentional, beautiful life.

a nook in the upstairs hall right outside a guest bedroom

another hall view showing the structural details of the home, including tiled floors, newly stuccoed walls, and the lovely wood beam ceilings

a guest bedroom
The door leads onto an upstairs terrace.

another bedroom view

the guest seating area
On cooler nights Fumo and Eva light a fire here and serve their own wine.

the entrance

the breakfast table
Every morning Fumo and Eva cook their own fresh eggs and serve them with homemade bread and jam.

Another view of the dining room showing a long table that has been in Fumo’s family since the late middle ages!

terrace cat

a late afternoon table with homemade wine

pigs and piglets

the view

the driveway

All pictures by Sheila Narusawa Bonnell.

I guess you know you are a true designophile when you select travel destinations based not on area attractions, but on accommodations. Such criteria has led me to remote regions of the Scottish Highlands (where I found myself alone and pregnant on the windswept moors while my husband and mother sampled ale at the local pub), and to rundown mansions in southern Sicily. It doesn’t have to be luxurious, just exquisite.

Clockwise: aerial view, room detail, breakfast, outdoor cafe chairs *

For my next lodging-driven adventure, I’m surely going to Villa Augustus in Dordrecht, Netherlands. In these photos you may notice the mark of my flickr friend Ingrid Jansen, whose home and work I have featured here. When not making her own beautiful wood and wool creations, Ingrid works at Villa Augustus, arranging flowers and otherwise contributing her design sensibilities. (Yes, I find myself increasingly envious of her life!)

Housed in an old 1880’s water tower, Villa Augustus is a hotel, restaurant, garden and market. Much like the produce grown in the Villa’s own garden, the whole place feels “organic.” The hotel interiors feature a colorful mix of styles, both historic and modern, as if each piece were chosen solely for its character, piece-meal and over time. The restaurant is similarly eclectic and serves locally produced delectables that change daily. In the market, you can buy your own fresh fare: flowers, baked goods and veggies, or indulge in a sweet or two. Also for sale, fabulously original Dutch curios and souvenirs by local craftsmen.

Unlike those highly-conceptualized hotels that rip an old building out of time and place, Villa Augustus appears grounded in the rich and diverse history of the people and town. Though once a municipal facility, the Villa now teams with life: flowers, colors, food. Employees – making, cooking, crafting, and growing –  seem friendly and “connected,” not all proper and posh. The effect is rather personal. One gets the sense that rather than a removed palace, Villa Augustus makes you feel part of the landscape. As if you were staying at someone’s cozy, country farm where all is earthy, charming, and utterly original.

Clockwise: reception, restaurant, room details

market, cafe chairs*

restaurant, market*

“villa wares”  – Being obsessed with everything rabbit as I am, I absolutely love the Villa’s bunny logo.*

Easter chandelier and year-round rabbit logo*

* photos copyright Ingrid Jansen. Used with permission of the artist.

market cafe*

market and table set for special occasion*

water tower and grounds